Saturday, 25 March 2017

Things take longer here

Everything takes longer here. There have been various electrical, appliance, plumbing, carpentry and lock problems at the house from the day we arrived.




Most are now rectified, but some are still awaiting completion. It’s been great entertainment for the kids though, with so many workmen constantly coming and going. And thankfully, the most important appliance, yes, even more important than the AC, has never had an issue – the washing machine. Other than not always having electricity to run it!


Even shopping is never straightforward. Hassan does the fresh food shopping at the local market, not too far from where we live, and fruit and veg are available at stalls dotted along the main road.



But for everything else we rely on a handful of supermarkets in the west end of Freetown. They are all Lebanese, and you have to go to at least 3 to get everything you need on any given day.

Adnan's for cheese, yogurt and meat...


Goodies the most european - I go there mainly for chocolate!!



Monoprix huge and (almost) everything you might ever want!
And small Payless, just meters from where we live (and it's sign a distance away from the actual shop!) 
It does force you to be more inspired in your cooking though. Found a middle eastern ingredient – Pomegranate Molasses – and cooked the most delicious chicken dish last week (Pomegranate Chicken Stew). And, after searching in vain for granola in all of said supermarkets, I realised I should just buy oats and make it myself! Taking longer sometimes results in better.
Banking is a regular challenge in Freetown. There are so few ATMs and those that exist are often not working so you end up travelling across the city in search of one willing to dispense you some cash. When you finally find a working ATM it gives you a massive wad of notes when you withdraw the maximum of €50 equivalent. Withdrawing bigger amounts inside the bank takes so much longer and gets you a huge bag of (dirty!) cash in even smaller denominations.

But we have money. And, in a country where most have far less than they require, that is a constant reminder of how fortunate we are.
There was a reception at the Irish Embassy for Paddy’s Day and things taking too long in terms of development projects was a recurring theme with people I talked to. There’s definitely a need to reset expectations in order to avoid constant frustration here. It’s undoubetdly more of an issue in the development and public sectors than the private sector, but a general culture of accepting things may never get done does seem pervasive. Or maybe it's just who I'm keeping company with! It’s a lot easier being here without a work focus.

Tuesday, 21 March 2017

Lumley Beach has changed

Google Photo's "Stylised" version of one of my pictures.
Lumley beach is a 3 mile long white sandy beach on the western edge of Freetown. It extends from Lumley and connects to Aberdeen via a bridge at the other end, and cushions Cockle Bay from the wild Atlantic Ocean. Looks amazing until you get closer up and see the rubbish littered everywhere.



Sign in Krio deterring littering


Both the beach side and the seafront across the road have changed a lot since I first came in September 2008.
My favourite view from our drinking spot, Beach Apple, in 2009
Previously there were only a few small buildings (with the odd exception) that mostly housed restaurants across the road from the beach. When I first arrived there were lots of wooden or thatch huts that served as bars on the beach side, but in October 2008 (Beach Bars Demolished) the ministry of tourism ordered them all to be demolished and that no permanent structures were allowed on the beach itself. Though I experienced them for only a short time, I missed those lovely bars where your toes were still in the sand. After a short time the restaurants on the other side of the road started to build flat stages on the beach where they’d put chairs, tables and umbrellas. By the time I left in 2012 the structures were already looking a lot more permanent again!

I had heard a similar demolishing had happened in 2015, so I knew the beach side was clear, but now there’s a path running the whole length which allows pedestrians an option from sand walking or risking life and limb on the road.
But the most dramatic change is the number of monstrosities, mostly under construction, and some seemingly private residences, that now dominate Beach Road. Can't help but be nostalgic for how it was before...

Roy's Restaurant got a super sizing and has a huge resort under constructon next door





This one's from Easter Monday 2011 - one big party on the beach!!!





Friday, 17 March 2017

“Let’s go to the National Stadium!”


So Hassan says one morning, “Let’s go to the National Stadium!”. Not on the tourist shortlist, but I’d never been and the kids were enthusiastic. Daniel thought he’d actually get to play football there. What I didn’t expect were the excellent views of the city. So here’s what we saw:






Easy Access


Great views of the city built into the hills
 
Swimming Pool (seen better days)

Youyi Building (governement ministries' offices) in the distance

Doesn't look it, but presumably still in use

Look at the mangoes!

Jump!

Not sure when this diving pool was ever in use...

Olympic hopeful

Poor state of showers

Nature adding something to the run down exterior


Roots reclaiming!
Bizarre

Time to go home


Wednesday, 15 March 2017

“When she’s big I will marry her”

We really do have 2 of the friendliest kids – the constant “Hi” even extends to strangers as we walk along the street! And in fairness they do get a lot of attention. “Yu de bluf o!” (very roughly translated as “You’re showing off, looking so cool”) was said to Ilanay a few times as we strolled to the bank with her shades, hair “planted” and beads this morning.




And there are lots of kids for them to socialise with. Though invariably Daniel asks me “what’s my friends’ name?” after he meets them!
With Festina, Hassan's friends' daughter

At No. 2 Beach we met children of a couple we knew from years ago
Kayma & Ilanay both have grandparents that came from neighbouring townslands in West Clare!
Ibrahim & Daniel writing


Ilanay, Diane, James, Daniel, Ibrahim and Fajo across from where I lived in 2008/2009
With Hassanatu, who they follow like puppy dogs.

But ultimately, they spend the most amount of time together and it’s lovely to see them growing up as (mostly) 2 best friends. Amongst all the contenders for marriage, Daniel insists that, when she’s big, he’s going to marry... Ilanay.